Tag Archives: primitive camping

Sharing a Story: Cedar Mesa Primitive Area

Tonight I started looking back at our photos from the last year and was amazed at how staring at a single photo could bring me back to that moment when it was taken.  There were so many amazing moments on the road, and most of the stories of them were never shared.  I intend to start a new feature on the blog where I will tell those stories, one photo at a time.  Starting now…

After hiking in the Kane Gulch Primitive Area in southern Utah (near Natural Bridges National Monument) we searched the backroads for free dispersed camping.  We drove along this dirt road that was mostly smooth, except where it came to the wash crossings.  Every time we had to cross a wash it was a delicate matter of slowing down and angling the car just right to keep the car from scraping.  I still cringe at four wheel driving, so I was eager to minimize the number of dead end roads we drove down in search of a camp site.  Unfortunately, the first off shoot we tried was a bust.  The road deteriorated right away.  We stop the car and got out to walk a ways to see if something amazing would open up around the next bend.  No luck for a campsite, but we did stop and stare at some remarkably large and clear paw prints which we determined must have been a large cat like a mountain lion.

Our next side road was more promising.  The road itself was in better shape, but there weren’t any clearings near the road and there was evidence of people taking down trees (probably for firewood).  This was BLM land, so a certain amount of that was legal.  As we headed further up the road we approached a rise and the land around us just leveled out into a glorious plateau that would make a perfect camp site.

One small problem, cryptobiotic soil.  This is a unique and endangered type of soil.  Basically it is alive and it is very very bad to disturb it because it takes a really long time to grow back and it’s really important to a healthy desert ecosystem.  Anyways, there was a ton of really healthy looking crypto in the perfect camp spot, so we decided to go further in hopes of another campsite option.

The road worsened with some bedrock that made for dramatic swings of the car (especially since we hadn’t stiffened the springs at that point).  Luckily Jay was driving as I walked on ahead to look at our options.  Just a short drive ahead we found it!  A great campsite near an old fence.  It was sandy flat soil in an area with existing signs of human disturbance so we were in the clear.

As Jay parked the car I just had to see where this road would finally end.  I raced on ahead and just around the corner the dirt road ended in bedrock at the base of a horseshoe of sandstone cliffs.  From the bottom I could see this area where the rock had an overhang and it seemed like there were paintings on the rock.  We had just spent the day hiking in an area with lots of pre-historic pictographs and cliff dwellings.  Maybe this was an archaeological site tucked away down this dirt road!  I scrambled up the sloping rock at the base of the cliff to try to get a better view of the potential paintings or etchings.  The further I climbed the steeper it got and the worse the view!  Finally, I got cliffed out.  It wasn’t a very difficult climb between me and the overhang, but I was in the wrong shoes and didn’t have the skills to tackle it.

I traced my steps back and hurried to Jay to let him know what I had seen.  Together, we made the climb again and he took my camera for the final pitch to get a close up view.  That’s where he took this picture.  This picture that shows that the painting on the rocks was natural, caused by water, air, and the ingredients in the rock.  Just another beautiful natural wonder rather than human artistry.  I was a little disappointed, but as I watched the sun set over the Cedar Mesa area I still felt a connection with all of the people who had explored this land before me.  So amazing to think there are primitive areas like this left in the United States, with obvious signs of human impact, but with enough left unspoiled and rarely visited that it allows the mind to imagine.

Photo Diary: Our First Bike Packing Adventure

This week we had an unexpected but marvelous adventure!  For awhile now we have been talking about wanting to try bike touring or bike packing, but we weren’t sure where we could try it out that would fit our criteria: A) an easy bike ride B) a safe place to leave our car and C) a nice place to camp.  Well, when we went to visit the San Pedro Riparian Conservation Area, we got to talking to the staff at the San Pedro House and they let us know that there was a primitive campsite that was accessible by biking or hiking on an easy four mile dirt road.  It only costs $2 for a back country permit.  We were sold on the idea as soon as we learned that we could leave our car in a parking lot that would be locked up over night and watched by volunteer caretakers.  Perfect!  Our first bike pack would be to the Miller Camp along the San Pedro River.

image

Sharon's bike packed and ready to roll!

birds on tree in san pedro conservation area

This area is special for all of the birds. As we rode along we would spook the birds filling the trees and the would take off flying over the grasslands.

miller camp

After a little confusion over whether or not we were on the right road and getting used to biking with a load, we arrived safe and sound in our primitive camp complete with outhouse and safe food storage.

miller camp

We had the whole place to ourselves and were spoiled for choice of tent locations

We toasted this new milestone with tequila shots as the sun set

We had even remembered to pack a couple of very sour limes!

These tequila shots were gifts in our Christmas stockings from Morgan and Cindi. Thanks!!

The sunset just kept getting better and was one of the most beautiful we have seen lately

I got up at sunrise like usual to take some photos, but it was so cold (at least 25 degrees) that I just went back to the tent to hide out until the sun reached our tent.

The sun was finally melting the frost and we were safe to crawl out of our tent

Jay warmed up over the stove as he heated water for coffee - (another stocking stuffer, thanks mom for the Via!)

I broke out another stocking stuffer, our hand warmers! Boy was it icy that morning.

Our camelbak hoses froze overnight, but luckily we had kept some water in the tent and the camelbaks thawed after an hour in the sun

I invented a great morning snack, warm applesauce! (Without some warming it would have been apple slushy)

Our camp was right next to the San Pedro River and we enjoyed watching some birds here before heading back. We were also told there were mountain lion tracks by the bank, but I couldn't find them.

We were only a day's bicyle ride from the Mexican border. This blimp looked down on us (and the border) and we wondered what kind of data it was collecting.

As we rode back the sky was filled with birds, including this group of hawks circling the area

We took the trail next to the river on the way back and were able to stop at two ponds to check out more birds

Like this heron

Jay's brakes squeal and kept scaring off the birds!

Ok, one more heron photo, just cause I managed to get this one of it flying (we watched it circle the whole area before landing at the other pond)

Finally, the home stretch

Back to San Pedro House

Did I mention there were a lot of birds?

Overall, the overnight bike packing adventure was a success!  We might try it again soon.

 

How to Find Free Camping in the United States

This is part of our weekly How To Series….

Camp site in Pinetop, Arizona

Our free campsite in the Sitgreaves - Apache National Forest near Pinetop, AZ

We have been doing a better job of staying under budget in the last couple of months, partly due to our efforts at finding free places to camp.  Free camping opportunities vary state by state, but there are lots of amazing sites throughout the west since there is a lot of public land.  Here are some tips for finding a great free and legal place to camp.

tent at Lake Mead

Our free campsite in Lake Mead National Recreation Area

  1. Find Public Land:  the Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management are the two largest agencies managing public land that is open to “dispersed camping” (read: FREE).  Unfortunately their websites are both pretty terrible, so it is best to make time to go into the local USFS or BLM office and ask a ranger for the camping regulations and advice on where to find a good site.  There are a few notable exceptions in which the National Parks Service actually has free campgrounds or allows dispersed camping (we have found this at Great Basin National Park, Lava Point in Zion National Park, Death Valley National Park, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, and Congaree National Park).
  2. Get a good map — we use the National Geographic Road Atlas and then look for state maps that list recreational areas.  You need a map that is color coded to show which areas are public land.  Once you’ve identified public land, look for roads that spur off of the main road and are not being actively used for ranching, logging, or mining (they do not lead directly to tanks, mines, etc.).  It is off of these roads that you will find suitable sites.
  3. Give yourself time — the site may be free, but it usually takes more time and gas (if you’re traveling by car) to find a free campsite.  If you are going into a national forest or BLM recreation area for the first time to search for a campsite, make sure to allow an hour just to drive around and look.
  4. Look for impacted areas — USFS and BLM lands (and occasionally National Park Service) allow dispersed camping in areas that have already been impacted.  In other words, there are tire tracks or destroyed vegetation or fire rings, or all of the above.  You do not want to go into a bit of healthy habitat and start driving around and building fires.  Please review Leave No Trace practices before trying primitive camping.
  5. Be prepared and self sufficient — Free camping almost always means primitive with no amenities.  You need to bring sufficient water, a shovel for digging a hole to use as a bathroom, and of course food and a way to cook it.  In many areas they have fire restrictions, so do not plan on being able to roast a meal over an open fire.  Even sites near natural sources of water require that you bring a way to purify the water since it has often been contaminated by livestock or humans.
  6. Let someone know where you are going — If you are headed off the beaten path in search of a campsite it is a good idea to tell someone where you are headed in case anything happens.  Many public lands do not have cell phone reception and we often go for days without seeing anyone.
  7. Leave it better than you found it — Having areas to camp for free is a real privilege.  Unfortunately we often find that popular free camping areas are trashed.  Please pack out your trash and pick up a few things that someone else left behind so that it is nicer for the next camper.
give plants a chance sign

Great sign near our free campsite at the Lava Point campground in Zion National Park